20 February 2004
Light brown and green. That’s what I could see below when reaching the Land of Cambodia. Empty land and farms with scarce housings were things which were on the spot even when the plane was about reaching the international airport of Phnom Penh. I expected to see tall buildings, since Phnom Penh is the capital of the country, but they are not there.
Soon the plane landed. I followed other passengers leading to the immigration section, having on my hands documents needed for visa arrangement. Arranging visa at Phnom Penh airport was not so difficult as I thought it to be. They did not even see all my documents I had been preparing like the formal letter of invitation and sponsor letter. A completed form, a valid passport, a photograph and US $ 25 was all what was required to have a business passport. Only in about 15 minutes I already had a business visa on hand and rushed to pick up my luggage.
On getting out of the airport, I heard someone called out my name. He was Mr Yoseph, another ASF fellow who had been in Phnom Penh two months earlier for his research on black memory of Pol Pot regime, coming with another man, Mr Iwan, the director of Cambodia Fuelwood Saving Project, to pick me up from the airport. We were driving for about 15 minutes after which we arrived in a computer café where Mr Yoseph was staying.
Along the way to the house, which is around the center of Phnom Penh, few things were attracting me. Phnom Penh is far from being a metropolitan in terms of how the system is created and how facilities are provided. Taxis are really scarce, if we cannot say unavailable, and there is no a single bus on the spot along the way. Motor bikes and tricycles are the only means of public transportation in the city. Interestingly, the motor bike seats are extended as to carry more than one passenger. A motor bike with four persons on it is a normal thing to see. One US dollar is more than enough to take one with a motor bike within the city.
There seem to be no traffic rules in the city. Motor bikes with overloaded passengers are scattering, stopping wherever they want to. Driving licenses are not required but for car drivers. Traffic lights are scarce. Even a crowded crossroad in the center of the city may not have a traffic light. These may serve as one of the explanation why traffic accidents are high here. It is said that about ten persons die every day for accident in Phnom Penh.
Many beggars and tramps are seen in public places. Only for about 15 minutes sitting in a small restaurant for lunch, five beggars came to us each asking for a hundred riel (0,25 cent US). Some beggars are so insisting that they wouldn’t go away unless we give them some pennies. Street children are also there in the crossroads, markets, malls, public gardens and almost everywhere. Some glue-smelling street hildren are also on the spot in the pavements or corners of crossroads.
Before my arrival, my friend, Mr Yoseph, had told the owner of the house that I would be staying there. It’s a three storey shop-house located along one of the main roads. The first floor is an Internet café and telephone rental; the second and third floors are with rooms for rent, one of which is for the family of the house owner. I am now staying in a furnished 3×4 room where the family used to stay. They emptied the room in the morning the day I arrived and now moving to the living room of the second floor. I don’t understand why the owner of the house, who to me is a rich person, prefers to give their room to a tenant and stay in the living room which may reveal their privacy.
The owner of the house and his family are friendly. They greet and smile a lot. But they don’t speak English. Soon I realize how important it is to learn Khmer language. I often want to greet a local person and start a conversation, but it is really difficult to find some one who can speak English here. I am lucky to have Mr Yoseph who can speak a little Khmer and bridge my communication with the owner of the house, the motor dob drivers, shop owners, waitresses, etc.
I think I like staying in the room. Though it is a bit far from my host institution, the CWCC, I don’t think that would pose a big deal. I can easily call a motor dob, which is available at the crossroad in front of the house at any time, when I need to go out. Here I can easily get an access to the Internet and telephone, two things which are really important to me and are not obtainable in many places here in Phnom Penh. There are only a few Internet and telephone kiosks here. Unfortunately, public telephones are in nowhere. The only public telephone services are the ones offered by some owners of private mobile phones. If you see a glass box of about 0,5 to one meter with some telephone numbers on the glass window on the pavements, that is where you can get access to a telephone service. Or, you can also go to the Internet café and call via internet, a business which is considered illegal and begins to be banned here.